I made this operation breakdown in my college days as one class assignment. I visited one garment export house (factory) to study garment for this assignment. That time factory was making Cargo Pants (in Khaki fabric). It was a nice product.
When I started making an operation breakdown, first I was overwhelmed by looking at a number of operations of the cargo pant. In a cargo pant, I can only see double-needle stitching with thicker threads. Don't know where to start and how to breakdown operations. Then I follow the process, the way line was making that cargo pant. Finally, I made it and corrected later stage.
I did time study for most of the operations and also did motion study using SPD code and TMU values (Sewing Process Data). Here I am only sharing operation breakdown and machine types used for operations. I don’t have the actual image of the cargo pant that I had studied. Following image is just for an indication. Construction and styling of the actual cargo pant were different than this one.
The cargo pant that you have maybe different in styling and construction. By reading operation name here you can relate with your product and refer this for making your operation breakdown and modify where needed following your sample.
When I started making an operation breakdown, first I was overwhelmed by looking at a number of operations of the cargo pant. In a cargo pant, I can only see double-needle stitching with thicker threads. Don't know where to start and how to breakdown operations. Then I follow the process, the way line was making that cargo pant. Finally, I made it and corrected later stage.
I did time study for most of the operations and also did motion study using SPD code and TMU values (Sewing Process Data). Here I am only sharing operation breakdown and machine types used for operations. I don’t have the actual image of the cargo pant that I had studied. Following image is just for an indication. Construction and styling of the actual cargo pant were different than this one.
The cargo pant that you have maybe different in styling and construction. By reading operation name here you can relate with your product and refer this for making your operation breakdown and modify where needed following your sample.
| Oprn. Code | Operation Description | Machine Type |
| Back Panel: | ||
| A01 | Attach left piece and middle piece of the back panel | SNLS |
| A02 | Attach 3rd piece to the previous one | SNLS |
| A03 | O/L the raw edges | 4 thread O/L |
| A04 | Topstitch on the stitch line | DNLS |
| A05 | Design stitch on back yokes | SNLS |
| A06 | Sew yoke with Back panel | SNLS |
| A07 | O/L of yoke and back seam | 4 thread O/L |
| A08 | Top stitch at yoke | DNLS |
| A09 | Strip attach inside back panel at pocket opening | SNLS |
| A10 | Back pocket attachment | SNLS |
| Front Panel | ||
| B01 | Sew front parts | SNLS |
| B02 | O/L the raw edges | 4 thread O/L |
| B03 | Topstitch on the stitch line | DNLS |
| B04 | Sew top pocket (side pocket) ply to pocket mouth (inside out) | SNLS |
| B05 | Fold out and Top stitch to pocket mouth | SNLS |
| B06 | Stitch side pocket all three sides | SNLS |
| B07 | O/L front crotch area (J shaped) | 4 O/L |
| B08 | Zipper Fly attach to left panel | SNLS |
| B09 | Zipper attach to Zipper fly | SNLS, single presser foot |
| B10 | J-Stitch on the top of left panel at zipper area | SNLS, single presser foot |
| B11 | Right Zipper fly attached to zipper | SNLS |
| B12 | Right fly attached to right panel | SNLS |
| Side Pocket: | ||
| C01 | Attach rectangular patch on middle ply | SNLS |
| C02 | Place two pocket facing on the both side of it and stitch at curved area | SNLS with edge cutter |
| C03 | Take inner side out and top stitch at curved area | SNLS |
| Side Patch Pocket: | ||
| D01 | Hand creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out | SNLS |
| D02 | Pressing the folded edges | Iron |
| D03 | Top stitch at upper folded edges all three sides | DNLS |
| D04 | Sew folded portion at pocket mouth | SNLS |
| D05 | Zipper bottom fly attach pocket mouth | SNLS |
| D06 | Zipper stitch with bottom fly | SNLS |
| D07 | Sew upper fly with zipper | SNLS |
| D08 | Sew small pocket on big one | SNLS |
| D09 | Attach flap | SNLS |
| Small patch pocket | ||
| E01 | Hand creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out | SNLS |
| E02 | Hemming pocket opening and attach button loop | SNLS |
| E03 | Sew folded portion at pocket mouth (outer fold) | SNLS |
| E04 | Top stitch at upper folded edges all three sides | DNLS, Compensating P/F |
| Small patch pocket Flap: | ||
| F01 | Fusible interlining | Fusing m/c |
| F02 | Side fold first then centre fold and top stitch | DNLS, Compensating P/F |
| Waist Band preparation: | ||
| G01 | Fusing interlining all three parts ( Inner & Outer both) | Fusing m/c |
| G02 | Folding and Pressing (outer) and marking using template | Iron and template |
| G03 | Stitch front parts to back part( both inner & outer) | SNLS |
| G04 | Stitch inner and outer waist band (F to F) keeping a small patch | SNLS with edge-cutter |
| G05 | Pressing waist band at the stitch line | Iron |
| G06 | Attach size label to brand label | SNLS |
| G07 | Attach brand label to inner waist band | Automated SNLS |
| G08 | Stitch ends of band | SNLS |
| Back pocket: | ||
| H01 | Serge pocket piece opening | 3 thread O/L |
| H02 | Serge the strip | 3 thread O/L |
| H03 | Stitching of pocket opening | SNLS |
| H04 | Folding pocket mouth and stitch at sides of opening | DNLS |
| H05 | Press three edges of pocket | Hand iron |
| Belt loop: | ||
| I01 | Run stitch | SNLS |
| I02 | Pressing | Hand iron |
| I03 | Closing of one end of belt loop | SNLS |
| I04 | Pressing | Hand iron |
| I05 | Top stitch on centre | DNLS, Compensating p/f |
| I06 | Cutting according to loop length | Hand scissors |
| Zipper flap: | ||
| J01 | Serge left zipper fly | 3 thread O/L |
| J02 | Fold and run stitch on right zipper fly | SNLS |
| J03 | Over lock stitch right zipper fly | 3 thread O/L |
| Assembly | ||
| K01 | Side seam(Front and back attach) | SNLS |
| K02 | Over lock side seam | 4 thread O/L |
| K03 | Patch pocket attach | SNLS |
| K04 | Inseam | SNLS |
| K05 | O/L the edges (inseam) | 4 thread O/L |
| K06 | Topstitch on inseam | DNLS |
| K07 | Attach left and right panel at seat and crotch area | SNLS |
| K08 | Over lock stitch | 4 thread O/L |
| K09 | Counter stitch | SNLS |
| K10 | Attach lower part of belt loop | SNLS |
| K11 | Attach waist band with wash care label | SNLS |
| K12 | Top stitch on waist band | DNLS, Compensating p/f |
| K13 | Second stitch on at lower side of belt loop | SNLS |
| K14 | Marking and Design stitch on belt loop and top end joining. | SNLS |
| K15 | Bottom hemming | SNLS |
| K16 | Stitching of zipper flaps at lower ends. | SNLS |
| K17 | Second Brand label attach | Computerized L/s m/c |
| K18 | Bar tack at loops, on J-stitch | Bar tacking m/c, Raised bed |
Machine name abbreviation:
- SNLS - Single Needle Lock Stitch
- DNLS - Double Needle Lock Stitch
- O/L - Over lock Machine
- M/c - Machine
- L/S - Lock Stitch
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