This is a guest submission from
Priyabrata Mondal.
Jeans pants become one staple apparel product in our daily clothing need. The demand for jeans is on the rise. The cost of manufacturing one pair of jeans depends on the technology level used for making operations and production rate. Out of many sewing operations in jeans manufacturing, waistband attaching is one of the critical operations. As the waistband attachment is one of the most important operations in any jeans and has special significance.
If we look at a typical description of the operation, first the waistband cut pieces come from cutting department with attaching of desired fusing material on it, and then it is directly attached with the jean’s top portion by using a waistband attaching machine and folder. Quality issues like wrong alignment or placement from waist seam may come with other possible issues like puckering, gathering or incorrect shape. Doing this operation manually may result in less output than targeted, so that investment in automated operations may be considered, with its return a finite blessing.
In this post, we have compared Kansai, Juki, Yamato, Vibemac, and AMF Reece technology solutions on jeans waistband attaching.
Basic technology level for waistband attachment
The basic level of technology uses electronic double needle chain stitch machines where only two to four needles used to perform this operation with help of folder to join the desired shape. Here, the operator first inserts the precut band manually in the folder and then picks up and positions the jeans inside the waistband and then presses the pedal to start the machine. The operator then repositions jeans for proper alignment and process continues.
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| Waistband attaching machine |
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| Jeans waistband attaching machine |
After completion, the operator needs to cut the thread by manually with help of scissors.
In the basic level of technology, the process is fully manual and controlled by an operator’s skill. Here no automatic trimming and fabric cutting process is done. So, the production is very slow due to extra motion is applied in non-value-added activities. For mouth close operation, a second operator is required as with this technology we cannot close the mouth of the waistband.
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| Table-1: Basic technology level makers (Kansai and Juki) |
Intermediate Level of Technology
Over time, a lot of upgradation of technology is done in making and attaching the waistband. In terms of productivity, there are so many changes in the process. In intermediate level of a technology company like KANSAI, VibeMac, AMF REECE, FOX SEW have come up with a new solution of making waistband in a continuous process.
The stitching process is similar to basic level technology, but technological advancement comes in different parts of the machine. Like here, it has an automatic skip stitch device and fabric cutter which can skip the stitch automatically as per requirement it can be manually fed to the LCD panel. And by the optical sensor, the machine automatically turns “ON” and “OFF” the skip stitch device and cut waistband. And it has double puller mechanism which makes possible to cut materials properly by holding the fabric with both pullers.
Operator friendly LCD touchscreen Automatic mode on/off with a touch easy to adjust the cutting length and skipping length. This technology helps in reducing the motion (work content) in the sewing operations like cutting thread manually.
In the intermediate technology level, the operator first inserts the precut band manually in the folder and then after paddling by the operator puller will automatically pull the waistband forward, to skip the required length of stitch then operator picks up and positions the jeans inside the waistband and then presses the pedal again to continue the operation. After completion, the thread will cut automatically by under trimmer. VibeMac comes with new patented technology, that is the mixing of both lock and chain stitch in their FLX model.
For mouth close operation there is a requirement for another operator, as in this level of technology we cannot close the mouth of the waistband. In this level of technology SAM of attaching waistband is 0.41 minutes. And with adding mouth close operation for both left and right side is 1.103 minutes.
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| Table-2: Intermediate technology makers |
Advanced Level of Technology
In the highest level of technology, machines manufacturer brings the flexibility in their machines, where the machine is capable of doing multiple processes in one go. Here, using drop-down folder operator can easily close the mouth of the waistband for both right and left side during the waistband attachment process. Using pneumatic scissors, operators can cut the waistband as per the length required to fold and close mouth for top stitch. This process reduces one operator for the mouth closing operation. In this operator first inserts the waistband inside the drop-down folder and then folding edge operation is made manually by them at the beginning and at the end of the waistband attaching operation. Pneumatic scissors are very easy and comfortable device to reduce the fatigue of the operator and to increase quality and productivity.
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| Waistband operation attachment |
In the advanced level of technology, SAM of attaching waistband and folding WB at beginning and end is 0.590 minute which slightly higher than joining WB at a basic level. But here adding mouth close operation for both left and right side is 0.911 minutes which unveils the level of productivity.
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| Table-3: Advanced technology level |
Production calculation and cost comparison of the different level of technology
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| Table-4: Production cost calculation |
About the author: Priyabrata Mondal is a graduate in apparel production. Currently, he is pursuing his master degree in Fashion Technology at NIFT, New Delhi. His interest is in the apparel supply chain.
