This article is written by K.M. Emran Hossain.
Twill tape is a versatile sewing accessory widely used in the garment industry for both decorative and functional purposes. Whether reinforcing seams, binding edges, or adding design elements, twill tape is an essential component in shirts, pants, jackets, and many other garments. Its demand remains high in ready-made clothing factories and tailoring shops.
But what exactly is twill tape? What materials are used to make it? And how is it manufactured? This guide explores everything you need to know about twill tape, from raw materials to the production process.
What is Twill Tape?
Twill tape is a narrow woven fabric with a strong diagonal weave, giving it durability and flexibility. It is known by various names, including twill string, twill cord, cotton tape, and cotton twill tape. Twill tape is commonly used for:
- Reinforcing seams in garments
- Binding edges to prevent fraying
- Creating drawstrings, straps, and belts
- Adding decorative details to clothing and accessories
The strength and versatility of twill tape make it an essential material in both high-fashion and everyday apparel manufacturing.
Raw materials used in twill tape manufacturing
The raw material used for twill tape making is different types of yarn. Yarn types depend on the samples or the design provided by the buyer with technical specifications. Also, various kinds of yarn count are required for Twill tape making like 26 Single, 24 single, 30 single, 34 single yarns, etc. Here, I have provided the yarn commonly used for twill tape making.Common Yarn Types for Twill Tape
Some of the common twill tape widths are as follows
1) Warping Machine:
The wrapping machine is also known as the Beam Machine. It is used for making Beam of yarn. 1 beam contains an average of 5000 to 10000-yard yarn depending on yarn thickness. One Yarn beam-making time is an average of 20 minutes. Each Twill tape-making machine needs 4, 6, 8, 10, or 12 beams depending on the head of the machine.
2) Twill tape Making Machine
Setting the yarn of the beam to the Twill Tape machine Beam Stands. There are different sizes of Twill tape machines, like
Step 2: Setting the beam in the twill tape machine
- 100% Cotton Yarn – Provides a soft and breathable finish
- 60% Cotton & 40% Polyester Blend – Balances softness and durability
- 90% Cotton & 10% Polyester Blend – Offers strength with a cotton feel
- 75% Cotton & 25% Viscose Blend – Enhances flexibility and sheen
- 50/2 Sewing Thread & 20/2 Sewing Thread – Used for specialty twill tapes
Types of Twill Cord / Twill Tapes
When it comes to selecting the right quality of twill tapes from the variety of options, you follow the specifications. Let's learn about different kinds of twill tape available in the market.
1. Herringbone twill tape - Herringbone twill tapes are mainly used in garments for enforcing the seam. The Twill tape stitching shape is like the English letter ‘V’. Here is the below image for your easy understanding.
2. Gross band Twill tape - Gross band twill tape is used for the design is like a horizontal straight line (-----)
3. Ribbon tape - The stitching and construction of ribbon tape look like the 'X' shape of an English letter.
4. Designer Twill Tape - Designer twill tape is made from two or three-color yarns. Used for branding and aesthetic appeal.
5. Canvas tape - Its tight weave and diagonal ribbed pattern provide strength and flexibility, making it ideal for reinforcing seams, binding edges, and creating straps or drawstrings. Canvas twill tape is often used in heavy-duty applications such as tote bags, aprons, workwear, and even outdoor gear. It is available in various widths and colors to suit different projects.
6. Cotton twill tape or Cotton tape - Cotton Twill Tape is a soft, durable, and flexible fabric tape made from 100% cotton. It features a distinctive diagonal weave pattern, giving it extra strength and a slight stretch. This versatile tape is commonly used in sewing, tailoring, and crafting for various purposes.
Selecting the right twill tape depends on the intended use, design preferences, and durability requirements.
Common Sizes of Twill Tapes
Twill tapes are available in different sizes (width). The twill tape width you select for your products depends on the style specifications.Some of the common twill tape widths are as follows
- ½ cm,
- 1.0 cm,
- 1.5 cm,
- 2.0 cm,
- 2.5 cm,
- 3.0 cm,
- 4.0 cm
The choice of width depends on the specific garment or accessory design.
Machine used for Twill tape making
There are two types of Machines used for twill tape-making.1) Warping Machine:
The wrapping machine is also known as the Beam Machine. It is used for making Beam of yarn. 1 beam contains an average of 5000 to 10000-yard yarn depending on yarn thickness. One Yarn beam-making time is an average of 20 minutes. Each Twill tape-making machine needs 4, 6, 8, 10, or 12 beams depending on the head of the machine.
2) Twill tape Making Machine
Setting the yarn of the beam to the Twill Tape machine Beam Stands. There are different sizes of Twill tape machines, like
- 6 Head Twill tape machine-where at a time 6 Twill tape strips will produce
- 8 Head Twill Tape machine-Where produce 8 strips of twill tape at a time
- 10 Head Twill tape machine –Where at a time produce 10 strips of twill tape
- 12 Head Twill Tape machine- Where at a time 12 strips of Twill tape will produce
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| Image: Twill Tape machine |
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| Image: Yarn Warping Machine |
Twill Tape Manufacturing Process
The following steps are followed in twill tape manufacturing.Step-1: Warping the yarn
First, the cones of yarns are set on the Beam machine rack for warping on the beam by Two operators. Then set the Beam to Warping machine Beam holder side. Manually setting the yarn sides of cones to the beam. At a time 128 cones can be set for warping on one Beam. Pressurize the beam with a rubber roller, so that the yarns do not warp scatter. Then switch on the warping machine. The primary speed will be low, after the yarn warping properly, the speed will increase.
Step 2: Setting the beam in the twill tape machine
The wrapped beam of yarns is set in a stand of beam holder located behind the tape making machine. The stand is also a machine part made of metal angles and pipes. For the 4-head twill tape machine, you need to set 4 beams on a stand, for 6 heads machines, you need to set 6 beams. In similar ways, to set up 8 8-head twill tape machine, the factory needs 8 8-beam setups on a machine depending on the machine head.
Step 3: Weaving the twill tape
The yarn heads are taken out from the beam and set with machine knitting parts manually. Yarn from other cones is used as a weft (is used for twill tape stitching) machine peniums are set according to twill tape design. Yarns are set on a machine plate, Machine Rid, Needle stand, Boia, and needle for making twill tape. Then power on the machine, check the product if the quality ok, then continue running the machine. Per machine capacity of 6 Head twill tape machine is 272 yards per hour.
Manpower Require to run a Twill Tape Factory:
The manpower requirement for running a twill tape manufacturing plant depends on the production volume and number of machinery installed in a plant. For example, 5 manpower is required to start a twill tape factory on a small scale.Productivity of a Twill Tape Factory:
Per day you can produce a minimum of 24000 yards. The output varies based on machine efficiency and worker expertise.Final Thoughts
Twill tape is a crucial element in the fashion and textile industry, offering both functional and decorative benefits. From its raw materials to its manufacturing process, every step requires precision and expertise to ensure high-quality production.
Whether you're a fashion designer, garment manufacturer, or textile enthusiast, understanding twill tape’s varieties and uses can help you make informed decisions in your projects.
About the Author: K.M. Emran Hossain is a Mechanical Engineer and he is based in Bangladesh. He has working experience in garment manufacturing and garment accessory manufacturing field. He has worked in Epic group as an industrial engineer, at Dekko group as asst. production manager, and at Pran-RFL group as an operation manager of plastic products. Currently, he is working as factory head at NZ group. He can be reached at emran.htlfl[at]gmail.com