Jeans pants have become a staple apparel product in our daily clothing needs. The demand for jeans is on the rise. The cost of manufacturing one pair of jeans depends on the technology level used for making operations and the production rate. Out of many sewing operations in jeans manufacturing, waistband attaching is one of the critical operations. The waistband attachment is one of the most important operations in any jeans and has special significance.
If we look at a typical description of the operation, first the waistband cut pieces come from cutting department with attaching of desired fusing material on it, and then it is directly attached with the jean’s top portion by using a waistband attaching machine and folder. Quality issues like wrong alignment or placement from waist seam may come with other possible issues like puckering, gathering or incorrect shape. Doing this operation manually may result in less output than targeted, so that investment in automated operations may be considered, with its return a finite blessing.
In this post, we have compared Kansai, Juki, Yamato, Vibemac, and AMF Reece technology solutions on jeans waistband attaching.
Basic technology level for waistband attachment
The basic level of technology uses electronic double needle chain stitch machines where only two to four needles used to perform this operation with help of folder to join the desired shape. Here, the operator first inserts the precut band manually in the folder and then picks up and positions the jeans inside the waistband and then presses the pedal to start the machine. The operator then repositions jeans for proper alignment and process continues.
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| Waistband attaching machine |
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| Jeans waistband attaching machine |
After completion, the operator needs to cut the thread by manually with help of scissors.
In the basic level of technology, the process is fully manual and controlled by an operator’s skill. Here no automatic trimming and fabric cutting process is done. So, the production is very slow due to extra motion is applied in non-value-added activities. For mouth close operation, a second operator is required as with this technology we cannot close the mouth of the waistband.
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| Table-1: Basic technology level makers (Kansai and Juki) |
Intermediate Level of Technology
Over time, a lot of upgradation of technology is done in making and attaching the waistband. In terms of productivity, there are so many changes in the process. In intermediate level of a technology company like KANSAI, VibeMac, AMF REECE, FOX SEW have come up with a new solution of making waistband in a continuous process.
In the intermediate technology level, the operator first inserts the precut band manually in the folder and then after paddling by the operator puller will automatically pull the waistband forward, to skip the required length of stitch then operator picks up and positions the jeans inside the waistband and then presses the pedal again to continue the operation. After completion, the thread will cut automatically by under trimmer. VibeMac comes with new patented technology, that is the mixing of both lock and chain stitch in their FLX model.
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| Table-2: Intermediate technology makers |
Advanced Level of Technology
In the highest level of technology, machines manufacturer brings the flexibility in their machines, where the machine is capable of doing multiple processes in one go. Here, using drop-down folder operator can easily close the mouth of the waistband for both right and left side during the waistband attachment process. Using pneumatic scissors, operators can cut the waistband as per the length required to fold and close mouth for top stitch. This process reduces one operator for the mouth closing operation. In this operator first inserts the waistband inside the drop-down folder and then folding edge operation is made manually by them at the beginning and at the end of the waistband attaching operation. Pneumatic scissors are very easy and comfortable device to reduce the fatigue of the operator and to increase quality and productivity.
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| Waistband operation attachment |
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| Table-3: Advanced technology level |
Production calculation and cost comparison of the different level of technology
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| Table-4: Production cost calculation |
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